The first thing you’re going to do is take off the cuff – in this process, you need to be careful to not rip the fabric or tear it because are some very tight stitches here. Afterwards, you’re going to remove the placket button and then remove the placket. You’re going to start with a larger flap piece on top. Again being very careful not to tear the fabric or make holes in it, then when that’s finished, you’re going to start on the smaller piece under underneath it. Now I have to shorten this sleeve by an inch and a half so when I get the placket taken off I’m going to measure up from the bottom up 1 1/2 inches and mark it with my chalk and because the edge is even I’m just going to mark it and then just cut it off. It’s all the same length because you cut off an inch and a half. Now you’re going to have to cut that split up an inch and a half to make sure that there’s going to be space for the placket. You’re going to put it on in the reverse order you took off the cuff.
Then the large part of the pocket the small part of the pocket, we are now going to put the small part of the placket on first. I am putting the small piece on the proper side on the correct side and when you put this small piece on the top of the placket piece should be narrower than the bottom part so that when you stitch it the underside will get caught in the stitching as well so that part on. Now, I’m going to put the large piece back on this one. I like to use pins because I have to sew up the side to the end and then come back around and I would rather put my time into making sure they get it right the first time rather than have to take those stitches out and redo it. My philosophy is to do it right the first time and you won’t have to redo it and it’s just more efficient that way. Okay on this part because you have to sew to the end and come around just be aware of the rest of the sleeve that it doesn’t get caught underneath because it’s a drag having to take those stitches out again. Okay, it looks good now.
I’m going to put the cuff on now, I’m starting on the right sleeve because towards the other end of the cuff I’m going to have to put two plates in there and it’s easier to figure out how much you need to pleat if you start on the right sleeve. So right here I was going to pin this and I’m going to put the pleats in after that i have to take out that whatever fabric is left and make the pleats then I will measure these pleats mirror them on to the other sleeve and that way I won’t have to sew it and then possibly have to take out stitches again, I’ll just know how big the pleats need to be and make sure you get all those threads off in.